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Repaint

Residential painting is a sort of critical home maintenance that serves to preserve your property from weather damage in addition to beautifying it. Failure to maintain a peeling property can result in a costly repair bill in the future. As a result, it's critical to replace a faded portion of a structure as soon as feasible. If you're planning to sell your home, you could need our house painting services. A clean and well-painted exterior will increase the value of your home and ensure that it sells quickly.

Deck Refinish

Painting a Deck: How to Prep for and Apply Paint

  1. STEP 1: Wash Down the Deck. Photo: istockphoto.com. ...

  2. STEP 2: Scrape and Sand the Deck. All loose and peeling paint must be removed before repainting a deck. ...

  3. STEP 3: Apply Paint or Other Finish to the Deck.

New Construction Paint

Your new building project is nearing completion, and painting services are the last thing on your mind. Your team has put in a lot of effort to finish this project, and you don't want to waste it with a poor paint job. That is why you require the services of a reputable neighborhood painting contractor. TLC Painting & Decorating has the knowledge, abilities, equipment, products, and procedures in place to ensure that every paint job we accomplish is done correctly. Find out more about our new construction painting services, or contact us in Bakersfield to set up an appointment

Exterior Painting

Our Exterior Painting Process
Creating an exterior paint surface that will look fantastic and withstand the elements requires adherence to a strict set of guidelines. At The Painting Company, we have perfected this process. Our expert crews follow a precise method that is combined with high-quality paints and specialized techniques to ensure every exterior paint job meets our high standards and exceeds our customer’s satisfaction.
• POWER WASHING.A quality exterior paint job requires a clean surface. We power wash every exterior to remove loose paint, debris and dirt to ensure a durable, lasting finish. This is one of the most important steps – many of our competitors skip this crucial step which can lead to premature peeling of the paint.
• TRENCHES.Raking dirt away from the exterior walls and foundation is critical to ensure the paint goes below the ground surface. Trenching is completed on every exterior painting project to apply paint below the grade.
• MASKING.Windows and trim that will not be painted are masked off to protect the surfaces.
• FOUNDATION.We use special coating called DRY-LOCK that waterproofs the foundation. This primer prevents peeling from moisture, which is common on moisture-rich foundations.
• SCRAPING.Any leftover peeling paint after the power wash is scraped away to create a smooth surface.
• REPAIRS.Any drywall on patios or stucco texture that needs repair is completed before the painting begins.
• CAULKING.All cracks around windows, doors and fascia are caulked to seal these areas.
• PRIMER.Every exterior has primer applied before the paint to create an adhesive surface. This is vital for long-lasting results.
• PAINTING.For excellent coverage, we apply paint both horizontally and vertically. If your contract specifies we may also back roll or apply a full second coat as well.
• TRIM.We carefully apply two coats of paint to trim for the best results.
• GARAGE & ENTRY DOORS.All doors are sprayed for a smooth finish.
• METAL SURFACES.Any metal or accents that need paint are done last using precise painting techniques.
• CLEAN UP.Our crews never leave a mess behind. All coverings, masking, paint chips and other debris are removed once the job is completed.
• INSPECTION.The foreman for your crew will carefully inspect the completed project to ensure it meets our high standards before we ask you to review the work for a final sign-off at completion.

Electrostatic Painting

Electrostatic methods use specialized equipment like an HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) sprayer or an air assist gun. Supplies are the same as any other spray-painting project – including masking materials and thinner.

A professional follows a standard process:

  1. A site inspection followed by a quote.

  2. Appointment scheduling. Most professionals are flexible and work around your schedule.

  3. Mask off the area.

  4. Ground the metal.

  5. Apply the paint.

  6. Clean the masking materials up and remove any equipment.

Most paints are dry within a few hours with full cure times up to 24 hours. Your professional will let you know when you can use your freshly-covered surfaces. This usually depends on the surface. A file cabinet might be ready right away while the treads, steps and handrails of a stairwell might need a few extra hours to cure completely.

Paint Shop or Booth for Off-Site Painting.

Alternately, many professionals also have a shop with a paint booth. You can send some objects to them. However, you’ll pay for shipping, and it takes longer to get the project finished. But, for smaller objects, like door handles, lighting fixture and other similarly sized equipment, it may make more sense.

How Does Electrostatic Spray-Painting Work?

It works using positively charged ions attached to atomized particles. These particles gravitate to grounded, negatively charged metal. Much like a balloon with static electricity, the charge “sticks” the tinted particles to the object and disperses it evenly.

Beyond that, it’s much like standard spray painting without the mess. It’s done on-site with wet tint that requires 12 to 24 hours to cure but are often dry to the touch in only a couple hours. Ask your professional when you can begin using your equipment again.

Why is an Electrostatic Spray Gun More Efficient?

The spray gun method charges the particles, so they are attracted to the grounded metal surface. Instead of blowing past the object you’re coating like a traditional spray, the particles will move to the object you’re spraying, much like a magnet to metal. This ends with less than 5% waste vs. a standard method that can waste 20% to 60% or more.

Pressure Washing

RESIDENTIAL

GIVE YOUR HOUSE SOME TLC! We will pressure wash your house !We remove spider webs, dirt, grime, moss and other unsightly stains from your stucco, wood, bricks, or siding. We also use a special rotary concrete machine that will make your concrete look new again.

 

COMMERCIAL

No matter how big or small your property is we have a solution to clean it!

Wrought Iron Painting

Wrought iron fencing looks extremely pretty and also offers a considerable amount of protection to a property. It might be a little bit more expensive when compared with other types of fencing, but it offers a number of additional benefits as well. However, the only issue is that maintaining a wrought iron fence is not as simple as it looks.

Over the passage of time, the paint on the wrought iron fence will continue to deteriorate. Because the fence is constantly exposed to the elements outside, the paint will continue to peel off over time. You will need to paint the wrought iron fencing at least once every couple of years if you want to maintain the curb appeal of your place. However, before applying a fresh coat of paint, you will need to prepare the wrought iron fence. Here are a series of steps that you should follow to prepare the fence for painting.

 

Removing Old Paint and Rust

 

The first step is to remove old and peeling paint from the wrought iron fence, as well as any signs of rust that you may notice. You can do this by manually sanding the wrought iron fence or by using a sandblaster. There are a number of paint and rust removers available in the market as well, so you can also use those to help get the job done. It is important that you first remove the old paint and the rust from the wrought iron fencing before you apply new paint, as doing so can help prevent the paint from peeling and chipping over time.

 

Use Medium Grit Sandpaper

 

You have to make sure that you use medium-grit sandpaper when sanding wrought iron fencing. This will ensure that any chipped or peeling paint is removed from the wrought iron fence and will leave behind a rough surface to which the new paint can adhere.

 

Use a Clean, Dry Rag

 

Next, you need to wipe the wrought iron fence clean using a dry rag. Make sure you cover every little bit of exposed area to ensure that the surface is smooth and ready for a fresh coat of paint.

 

Cover the Surrounding Area

 

Before you start applying primer or a fresh coat of paint to the fence, you need to cover the surrounding area. You can use an old cloth or preferably tarp to cover the surrounding area and ensure that you don’t get the paint on the exposed surfaces. Make sure you properly cover any surrounding plants and steps. Before you cover the greenery in the surroundings, you should mist them lightly with water as well.

 

Use a Rust-Inhibitive Primer

 

If you don’t want the wrought iron fence to start rusting after a short while, you should consider applying a rust-inhibitive primer on it. Once you are done with the primer, you can then apply a rust-inhibitive enamel paint on the primer to complete the painting process

Epoxy Floor Coating

Step 1: Diamond Grind & Repair Concrete

Proper preparation is the most important part of the process, ensuring that the underlying concrete and epoxy form the chemical and structural bonds necessary for a long-lasting floor coating.

  • Dust-Free Diamond Grind
    First we diamond-grind the floors to clean and profile the surface.
    It’s a dust-free process because our grinders are connected to a dust collection machine.
    Profiling the surface allows the epoxy to penetrate into the concrete slab.

    Patch Holes and Cracks
    Next, we fill all cracks, holes, and imperfections in the concrete with an epoxy patching material.
    Got major cracks in your concrete? Don’t worry, we can fix most cracks and holes.

     

Step 2: Apply Epoxy & Add Chip Flakes

Two coats of epoxy provide the base color and the structure of your garage floor coating, and chip flakes add color and provide traction.

  • Roll On Epoxy Primer Coat
    The epoxy prime coat penetrates into the concrete and provides a foundation for the thicker intermediate coat.
    We use an industrial-grade, low viscosity epoxy for maximum penetration and bonding with the concrete slab.

     

  • Roll On Intermediate Epoxy Coat
    The intermediate epoxy coat is much thicker than the primer, and is tinted to match the base color of your floor.
    For the intermediate coat, we use an industrial-grade, high solids / high build epoxy.

  • Apply Chip Flakes
    While the epoxy is still wet, we carefully broadcast the chip flakes into the epoxy substrate.
    Why chip flakes? Chip flakes provide traction and enhance a floor’s durability. They also add color and style to your floor.

  • Step 3: Apply Finishing Urethane Coat

Once the epoxy has dried, it’s time to finish the job with a urethane clear coat.

  • Roll On Urethane Clear Coat
    The urethane clear coat forms a seal over the epoxy and flakes, giving the system a cleanable surface that shines. Urethane also provides chemical resistance.
    We use a chemical-resistant aliphatic urethane for superior chemical and abrasion resistance.

Interior Painting

Our Interior Painting Process
Whether you hire us, or want to try your hand at painting an interior surface, following our process is the best way to get the results you desire. Why worry about following all the steps required when we have talented, experienced painters that can complete your interior painting job to the highest standard? This is the process we follow on all our interior painting projects to ensure each one meets our high standards.
• FURNITURE.All furniture and blinds need to be removed away from the painting surface – you can elect to have us do this for you or you can save a little bit of money and do it yourself.
• COVERING/MASKING.Any surface that will not be painted will be covered or masked off before the project. Plastic will cover any furniture or floors to eliminate possible damage.
• DRYWALL.Holes, cracks or missing texture will be repaired in drywall before the painting process begins.
• CLEANING.The surface must be clean and dry before we begin – we will wipe down all surfaces to ensure the best paint adhesion.
• CAULKING.Any cracks around baseboards, windows or doors will be re-caulked if necessary.
• SCRAPING AND SANDING.All loose paint will be scraped away and surfaces sanded where needed before we begin painting.
• PAINTING.Typically, we spray ceilings first to apply an even coat, then paint walls with two coats of paint. We use 12” or 18” rollers, depending on the job, keeping a wet edge and rolling from ceiling to floor.
• CUTTING IN.Painting the edges and “cutting in” takes skill and experience to do it right. Our process uses slow, long strokes to get the best results.
• CLEAN UP.All coverings and masking will be removed by our crews once the painting is completed. No mess will be left behind from our crews.
• INSPECTION.Every completed interior painting job is inspected for quality by the foreman of the crew and you will get a chance to review it before you sign off on the job.
Leave the Details to Us
Skipping even one step in this process can leave you with an inferior painting job. Our crews follow every detail of this process to the letter, using top quality equipment and paint with proven techniques for a flawless finish. For your next painting project, leave the details to us for a perfect surface every time.

Cabinets

Steps for Painting Cabinets

1. Prep the room

A successful paint job lies in diligent prep work, and the first few steps are focused on prepping the room and cabinets for painting.

  • Start by emptying the cabinets, clearing off the counters, and removing any freestanding appliances.

  • Relocate tables and other furniture to another room.

  • Tape rosin paper over the countertops and flooring, and, to protect the rest of the house from dust and fumes, tape plastic sheeting over the backsplash, windows, fixed appliances, and interior doorways.

  • Mask off the wall around the cabinets.

  • Set up a worktable for painting doors, drawers, and shelves

2. Remove the doors, drawers, and shelves

 

  • Be sure to mark each drawer front and door with a marker to prevent mixing up the doors. The best place for this mark is behind the hinge location.

  • Back out the hinge screws from the cabinet frame and remove the doors.

  • Working from left to right, top to bottom, label each one with a numbered piece of tape. Also, number the edges of cabinet shelves and the bottoms of drawers.

  • Set aside the shelf-hanging hardware.

  • At your worktable, remove the pulls and hinges and save what's being reused.

  • On the doors, transfer the number from the tape to the exposed wood under one hinge.

  • Cover it with fresh tape.

3. Clean all the surfaces

  • Clean the cabinet by spraying it with a degreaser solution and wiping it down with a rag. This removes all the oils and grease that could prevent a perfect finish. If ordinary cleaners aren’t effective, consider using a stronger cleaner like trisodium phosphate (TSP), which is sold at hardware and paint stores. Just make sure you follow the safety precautions on the container.

  • Once all the cabinet pieces are clean, rinse them thoroughly with water and let them dry.

4. Prep the boxes

  • Open the windows for ventilation and put on safety gear. Using an abrasive pad dipped in a liquid deglosser, scrub down all of the surfaces.

  • Hold a rag underneath to catch drips. Before the deglosser evaporates, quickly wipe away the residue with another clean, deglosser-dampened rag.

  • If you're relocating the hardware, fill the old screw holes with a two-part polyester wood or autobody filler.

  • It sets in about 5 minutes, so mix only small batches. The filler shrinks a bit, so overfill the holes slightly.

  • As soon as it sets, remove the excess with a sharp paint scraper. If it hardens completely, sand it smooth.

  • Use a foam sanding block to scuff the surfaces of the cabinet, drawers, and doors. This is a light sanding meant to give the primer something to adhere to, so don’t sand to the bare wood. Use a tack cloth to remove the sanding dust before moving on.

  • Vacuum the cabinets inside and out to make sure no bits of dust mar the finish, then rub them down with a tack cloth for extra measure.

5. Prime the cabinet boxes

Now it’s time for the primer. If the cabinets are heavily stained, use a stain-blocking primer, which dries quickly and seals knots and other surface defects that might bleed through the topcoats. In most situations, however, stain-blockers shouldn’t be necessary, and an oil-based or 100 percent acrylic latex primer will work just fine.

  • Pour some primer into the paint tray and load the roller and brush. Using the brush along the edges and tight spots, and the roller on the large, flat surfaces, coat the cabinet, doors, and drawer fronts with a coat of primer.

  • Starting at the top of the cabinet, brush on the primer across the grain, then "tip-off"—pass the brush lightly over the wet finish in the direction of the grain. Always tip-off in a single stroke from one end to the other.

  • Make sure to follow the underlying structure of the cabinet or door with the brush. Where a rail butts into a stile, for instance, paint the rail first, overlapping slightly onto the stile, then paint the stile before the overlap dries.

  • While you’re allowing the primer to dry, wash your brush and roller sleeve, and pour the excess primer back into the can before washing the paint tray.

6. Sand, caulk, and fill

 

  • After the primer is dry, sand the flat surfaces with 220-grit paper.

  • Sand any profiled surfaces with a medium-grit sanding sponge. The wood should end up feeling glass-smooth.

  • Squeeze a thin bead of latex caulk into any open seams. (The hole in a caulk tube's tip should be no bigger than the tip of a sharp pencil.)

  • Pull the tip as you go, then smooth the caulk with a damp finger. Fill any small dents, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty knife.

  • Once the spackle is dry (about 60 minutes), sand again with 220-grit paper, vacuum, and wipe with a tack cloth.

  • With a spray can of fast-drying oil-based primer, spot-prime the spackle and any spots where the sandpaper has “burned through” the primer.

  • Wait an hour, then sand the primer lightly with 280-grit paper.

  • Vacuum all the surfaces, and wipe them with a tack cloth.

7. Paint the cabinet boxes

 

You’re finally ready to paint! If you’re using roughly the same shade as the existing color, two coats ought to do the job. You might even get away with one. Painting over a dark finish with a light color is tougher and could require three coats. Break out a new brush for each coat.

  • Pour some trim and cabinet enamel paint into the paint tray and load the brush and roller with paint. Use the brush to cut in along the edges, push the paint into the corners, and leave out roller strokes. Use the roller to apply enamel paint to the large flat surface where possible.

  • For the cabinet interior, apply the paint with a smooth-surface mini roller, which leaves a slightly bumpy, orange-peel texture.

  • Cover the brush and roller with plastic bags to prevent them from hardening while you wait for the first coat to dry.

  • Between coats, sand the surfaces lightly, making sure to clean up the debris afterward.

  • Apply a second coat to the cabinet. This coat should provide a perfect, consistent finish without any thin or light areas where wood might show through.

8. Prep, prime, and paint the doors, drawers, and shelves

The strategy for prepping, priming, and painting doors, drawers, and shelves is the same as for the cabinets, except that all the work is done on a table to reduce the chance of drips, runs, and sags.

  • When painting paneled doors, start with the area around the panel.

  • Then, do the main field of the panel, and finish with the stiles and rails around the edges.

  • As you go along, wipe up any paint that ends up on adjacent dry surfaces to eliminate the chance of lap marks.

Tip: To speed up the drying time for doors, you can twist two screw hooks into holes drilled in an inconspicuous door edge (the lower edge for bottom cabinets, the upper edge for top cabinets). Paint the door's outside face and let it dry for an hour while resting flat, then tilt the door up onto its hooks and put a drywall screw into an existing hardware hole. Hold the tilted door up by the screw and paint the door's back side.

  • When you're done painting, pick up the door by the screw and one hook and hang both hooks on a sturdy clothes hanger.

  • Suspend the door from a shower curtain rod or clothes rod until it dries.

9. Put back all the pieces

 

  • Once the second coat dries, reattach the door and drawer fronts. Enjoy the fact that you’ve given your kitchen cabinets a fresh new look without investing a lot of time or money.

  • Remove the tape over each door's number, install the hinges and knob, and hang them in their original opening.

  • Replace the drawer pulls (or add new ones) and reinstall each drawer.

Wood Stain/Varnish

What Is Wood Staining?

Wood staining involves applying a coat of stain to a freshly sanded wood surface to transform the color of the wood or emphasize the wood grain. The process of sanding and staining a piece of wood is known as refinishing. When you refinish a wood surface, you first strip the wood of any pre-existing stain or varnish, then apply a new coat of stain followed by a wood finish such as polyurethane. You don't need to be an expert in woodworking to refinish a piece of wood furniture or trim, but it is important to prepare the wood properly before staining.

 

  1. Pre-stain wood conditioner: Woods that are soft or porous—such as pine or cherry—require a thin coat of pre-stain wood conditioner before staining to avoid blotchiness.

  2. Stain: With a variety of stain options at your disposal, take some time to choose your favorite stain type and color, thinking about how the finished stain will complement the rest of your home. Consider testing a few stains on a scrap piece of wood first. If you're staining pine, consider using a gel stain to avoid blotches caused by uneven absorption.

  3. Sandpaper: You'll need 120, 180, and 220-grit sandpaper to complete the job.

  4. Tack-cloth: A tack-cloth is a sticky cloth used for wiping away dust between sanding and staining.

  5. Stain applicator: Depending on which stain type you're using, you'll need either a natural bristle paintbrush, foam brush, or a clean rag to apply your stain. Read the instructions on your can of stain to choose the right applicator for the job.

  6. Lint-free cloth: Use a lint-free, clean cloth for wiping away excess stain.

  7. Drop cloth: Place a drop cloth under your staining project to protect the floor from drips and oil stains.

  8. Mineral spirits: Use mineral spirits to clean oil-based stains out of brushes.

  9. Wood sealer (optional): You don't have to seal your wood project, but a wood sealer will help protect it from scratches and wear. Consider finishing the project with a top coat of polyurethane.

  10. Power sander (optional): Depending on the size of the job, you may choose to use a power sander. Small pieces of furniture or trim can be sanded by hand or with a sanding pad.

Oil-Based Stain vs. Water-Based Stain

There are several options when it comes to selecting a stain for your wood project. The most common types of stain are oil-based and water-based stains. Both types come in a variety of stain colors and finishes. Choosing which type of stain to use for your staining project depends largely on the type of wood you're refinishing and your desired color.

  • Water-based stain: If you're using softwood—such as pine or cedar—and don't care to see the wood grain, a water-based stain is a great choice. Water-based stains come in a wide array of pigments—even non-traditional colors like pinks and blues. They are also fast-drying, have a low odor, and are easy to clean.

  • Oil-based stain: If you're refinishing a hardwood—such as oak or maple—an oil-based stain is ideal. Oil-based stains bring out the intricacies of the wood grain and are the more common choice among professional woodworkers. They do have a longer dry time, a strong odor, require mode sanding, and are slightly more difficult to clean up. With proper ventilation, the right tools, and a little elbow grease, oil-based stains can yield an impressive result.

 

How to Stain Wood in 6 Steps

Follow this step-by-step guide to staining wood.

  1. Sand the wood. Start by sanding your unfinished wood with 120-grit sandpaper, being sure to sand in the direction of the grain. This medium-grit sandpaper will open up the pores of the wood. Repeat the process again with 180-grit sandpaper and then one more time with 220-grit sandpaper until the top of the wood is smooth to the touch. Wipe off dust with your tack cloth.

  2. Stir your stain. Using a paint stick, stir your can of stain to fully mix in any pigments that may have settled at the bottom. Some stains should only be stirred, not shaken. Be sure to read the instructions on the can carefully.

  3. Apply the stain. Apply oil-based stains with a paintbrush or clean rag. Apply water-based stains with a foam brush or synthetic bristle brush. For deep grain woods, work the stain into the grain by working in a circular motion. Otherwise, apply the stain evenly in the direction of the wood grain.

  4. Wipe off excess stain. Allow oil-based stains to penetrate the wood for five to fifteen minutes. Allowing the stain to sit for the maximum amount of time will result in a darker color. Water-based stain dries fast and should be wiped off within two minutes of application.

  5. Let the wood dry before applying a sealer. Let water-based stains dry for two to three hours and oil-based stains for four to six hours before applying a polyurethane sealer. The best way to get a smooth finish is to apply the first coat of sealer, let it dry, and then lightly sand the surface with 220-grit sandpaper before applying a second coat.

  6. Clean up. Water-based stains should wash out of rags and drop cloths with warm water and soap. Oil-based stains will need to be cleaned up using mineral spirits. Dispose of rags soaked in oil-based stain according to the instructions on the stain can.

 

Wood Varnishing 

 

Varnish is a clear finish that hardens and cures on the surface of wood. By way of contrast, penetrating oils don't remain on the surface, and neither lacquer nor shellac cure. You can apply varnish to interior or exterior woodwork, and you can apply it to bare wood or to wood with a previous varnish finish. Whether the hardening agent is alkyd or polyurethane, varnish usually takes about eight hours to dry, and you usually need two or three coats for a complete finish. It's possible to spray varnish, but it's easier and just as effective to brush it.

 

 

1.
Apply varnish only to dry wood and work in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If you're working outside, do so only on days when no rain is forecast.

2.
Sand out imperfections in the wood with 100- or 120-grit sandpaper and a palm sander. It isn't always necessary to sand the wood -- for example, you leave exterior rough-sawn trim unsanded. When you do sand, however, It's best to use the sander for flat surfaces and sand in crevices and corners by hand with a folded piece of sandpaper
.

3.
Go over the woodwork with 150-grit sandpaper

, sanding with the grain of the wood, after the rough sanding is complete. The finer sandpaper

will erase swirls and scratches left by the sanding machine. Wipe off the sanding dust with a clean rag when you're done.

4.
Spread a coat of sanding sealer to interior woodwork with a natural-bristle paintbrush

. Sanding sealer is a shellac-based undercoating that seals the wood so you get more even coverage with the varnish. It raises the grain, but it's formulated to be easy to sand, so you can knock the grain back down again with a light sanding and create a smooth substrate for the finish.

5.
Scuff the sanding sealer with 220-grit sandpaper 
. Because you're sanding the finish, and not the wood, you can move the paper with or against the grain; some people prefer to use a swirling motion. Wipe off the sanding dust with a rag.

6.
Apply the first coat of varnish with a natural-bristle brush. Brush with the grain of the wood, using long strokes that begin on dry wood and end on wood you've just varnished. This allows the strokes to blend together.

7.
Move the brush more slowly if the finish starts to bubble. The bubbles come from turbulence in the finish. Break them with the tip of your paintbrush
before they have a chance to harden.

  • 8.
    Let the varnish dry for at least eight hours and then sand it with 220-grit sandpaper and apply another coat. Repeat a third time, if necessary.

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